2015 Rhine Riesling: No Pfalz Modesty

Vinous.com · August 2017

by David Schildknecht

2015 STEINBUCKEL GG Riesling: „White peach and raw almond mingle with salt and chalk on a satiny palate, leading to a finish of luscious, mouthwatering, vibrantly animating length, transparent to myriad mineral and subtly floral nuances, and extended by glowing piquancy of lime seed and peach kernel. As this sits in the glass, it picks up energy.” 93 Punkte

2015 Halbstück Riesling: „Fermented and aged in the 600-liter casks for which it is named, this wine was bottled at the same time as the vintage’s Grosse Gewächse but not released until 2016. A penetratingly high-toned evocation of blueberry distillate is accompanied on the nose by pungent mint and lavender as well as notes of moss and petrol. The palate impression is lush and still full of seemingly youthful juiciness, leading to a long finish mouthwateringly salt-tinged and energetically tingling as if from crystalline stony impingements. This is gorgeous stuff, and amazing too when one considers the vintage in question. Hopefully it will encourage the Knipsers to expand this ongoing series of Rieslings raised in smaller barrels and given extended bottle age before release. (There is even occasionally a later-released “Halbstück Reserve” version, but I have not tasted any recent examples.)” 92 Punkte

2014 BURGWEG GG Spätburgunder: “I tasted this soon after its August 2016 bottling and a good two years ahead of release, but Volker Knipser wanted to show me the continued evolution of Pinot Noir at his family’s estate as well as the serious potential of a vintage one would not imagine being favorable to this grape. Blueberry and purple plum are intensely present on the nose and on a subtly silken palate, and pungent hints of cinnamon and black tea lend counterpoint en route to a mouthwateringly marrowy, salt-tinged finish. The tannins here are as fine as I can recall from a youthful Knipser Pinot. (The Knipsers offered me just this one glimpse of what awaits from them in single-vineyard 2014 Pinot.)” 92+ Punkte

2013 Kalkmergel Spätburgunder: “Tighter, firmer, and – as its name implies – more prominently stony-chalky than the corresponding entry-level Knipser Pinot Noir, this combines sour cherry and boysenberry with black tea smokiness; a hint of rancidity and lanolin from cask is not obtrusive. A touch of creaminess nicely complements the brightness of fresh fruit acidity. Like its entry-level counterpart, this also exhibits a sweaty salinity that triggers the salivary glands on an impressively sustained and finely tannic finish.” 90 Punkte

2012 BURGWEG GG Spätburgunder: “The meatiness signaled on the nose runs very deep, like mouthwatering rare beef sirloin juice and marrow. At the same time, abundant fresh boysenberry and cassis offer a generously juicy and invigoratingly tart fruit matrix on a polished, satiny palate. Musky floral perfume lends inner-mouth allure, and saliva-stimulating salinity adds to the appeal of a brightly persistent finish. This weighs in at a bit over 13 percent alcohol but evinces neither heat nor heaviness.” 92 Punkte

 

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Weingut Knipser
Johannishof
Hauptstraße 47
D-67229 Laumersheim/Pfalz
Tel 06238.742 Fax 06238.4377

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Weingut Knipser
Johannishof
Hauptstraße 47
D-67229 Laumersheim/Pfalz
Tel +49.6238.742 Fax +49.6238.4377

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